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| Glory. Moments. Paradise. |
"While you're standing up there, take a look around, (pause) and, you know, relax. You need to relax." - Ranch Guy, circa winter 08-09.
Man, 2010 is the winter I broke my ankle. January thru March. I met Don soon after I started walking. I think it was early summer. I recall having a shit ass hard time getting up and down the rocks at County Line. Maybe that's why I wanted to go to MALIBU!
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| "All Day Long" (Winter 2010) Photography by Don Jayne Well, I don't know, but I've been told You never slow down, you never grow old I'm tired of screwin' up, tired of going down Tired of myself, tired of this town - (Tom Petty, "Mary Jane's Last Dance") |
Shortboarders vs longboarders. Short ride shorebreak or small, long rides. There! Bam! That's the summer around here. But winter, ah sweet, sweet, virile winter. I've yet to have thee; and I wonder of this coming season. I hope I can get my new board before it really hits and I don't get frustrated or the shit beat out of me by the water. The broken ankle my first winter; roller derby my second winter; and now what is my excuse? I hate my gear? I really do have too much board at the moment. We'll see what Malcolm comes up with. Never had a new one. But I've been through quite a few and have had some nice ones. |
| Some nice ones. |
