Glory. Moments. Paradise. |
"While you're standing up there, take a look around, (pause) and, you know, relax. You need to relax." - Ranch Guy, circa winter 08-09.
Man, 2010 is the winter I broke my ankle. January thru March. I met Don soon after I started walking. I think it was early summer. I recall having a shit ass hard time getting up and down the rocks at County Line. Maybe that's why I wanted to go to MALIBU!
Shortboarders vs longboarders. Short ride shorebreak or small, long rides. There! Bam! That's the summer around here. But winter, ah sweet, sweet, virile winter. I've yet to have thee; and I wonder of this coming season. I hope I can get my new board before it really hits and I don't get frustrated or the shit beat out of me by the water. The broken ankle my first winter; roller derby my second winter; and now what is my excuse? I hate my gear? I really do have too much board at the moment. We'll see what Malcolm comes up with. Never had a new one. But I've been through quite a few and have had some nice ones.
Some nice ones. |
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